Saturday, December 5, 2009


Last night, we three comrades went on a mission: to leave the comfort and ease of 'the pad', get out there, beautiful Buenos Aires, experience nightlife, porteño stlye.

We started the night right with a luscious bife de chorizo and mouthwatering, 'unbelievable', papas fritas provenzal at a local hotspot, Desnivel. As we sipped our Quilmes and let the beef melt in our mouths, the boistrous bistro bosted its own lady crooner, projection was not difficult for her. Her voice reverberated Rebekah del Rio, made famous for her Spanish version of "Crying", the essence of Mulholland Drive. It made us think, once upon a time this dishevlled diva was probably a show stopper. There she was, collecting pesos for her powerful presence.

After our meal, we headed out towards the plaza, searching for our evening's entertainment. The first place we stumbled upon was Mitos (myths). But, what seemed cute and quaint on the outside had much more to offer. The venue extended back by two more rooms and an upstairs to top it off. A centre stage with a backdrop projection put the local Ska-rock band, Yeti (pronounced she-tee), on display. Two more litres of beer. On to the next spot.

Reggae is big in San Telmo, a barrio rich in hippies and rastas. Passing by el Balcón, the smooth sound of saxophone and rythmic guitars seize our attention. Up we went to see a local reggae band perfom for the small gathering. From baritone to tenor to alto to soprano saxophones. All lined up in a row. Played by the main saxophonist. All in a row. After first intermission, the main saxophonist stayed in the limelight as the drummer and guitarist switched. Diversity. Two more litres of beer. Switch.

The nightcap ended at Nerfertiti, where the ground level was chill and sparse, but the 2nd floor (they call it the 1st floor) was packed with people enjoying the comedic band, Restos de Hollywood. A guitarist, bango player and puppeteer comprised this one-man show. Although the musicians demonstrated superb musical talent, the vulgarity and charisma of the puppet-wielding comedian is the reason this trio gets booked over and over. Absolutely gut-twisting. I had no idea what he was saying. After another 2 litres of beer, I proposed calling it a night. It was, afterall, 3am. Nevermind that the couple next to us just ordered a litre of beer and a menu.

Time to go. Time to sleep.

How I do porteño, Canadian-style.

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